26 июля, 2013

Biehl parfumkunstwerke. Gs01 и Gs02

Бренд, созданный по такой же схеме, как и Фредерик Маль: берем именитых мастеров, даем им максимальную свободу самовыражения и - вуаля! - новая марка с претензией на лучшее среди лучшего.
И мастера вроде не безызвестные: Geza Schoen - автор безумно популярных молекул, Mark Buxton - известен своими работами для марки Comme des Garcons и Linari, а так же автор знаменитых губ Salvador Dali, Patricia Choux  - участвовала в создании ароматов Clive Christian.
И концепция интересна, хоть и не нова...но...что-то я не очень впечатлилась.


На мой взгляд, немцы довольно сильно проигрывают опередившим их в этом деле французам: я не испытала таких сильных эмоций, как при знакомстве с ароматами Малля, когда каждый парфюм для меня был ярким, сочным, дерзким! Парфюмы Biehl же - это, скорее, строгие, в белых рубашках и черных галстуках. Никакого вызова и, тем более, эпатажа. 
Все просто, но все же со вкусом.

Сегодня мне бы хотелось рассказать о паре ароматов, созданных  Geza Schoen - человеком, который потряс мир новым веянием в парфюмерии - парфюмерными молекулами.
Сейчас практически невозможно встретить любителя парфюмерии, не знакомого с загадочной серией Молекул на основе  iso e super - вещества, играющего на коже каждого человека новую, неповторимую мелодию..
Но сегодня я не буду говорить о Молекулах. Сейчас я хочу поговорить о творениях "короля  iso e super " для дома Biehl parfumkunstwerke - gs01 и gs02.
Не скажу, что ароматы похожи на популярные молекулы, но рука одного мастера чувствуется, и чувствуется отлично.

Gs01
Я бы охарактеризовала данный парфюм как травянистый шипр.
В самом старте - пучок ароматных трав и кислинка цитрусовых. Это как если бы мохито делали не с мятой, а с шафраном и базиликом, щедро украсив флакон с бодрящим зельем листьями лавра.
Аромат очень уютный, но для меня не совсем носибельный. Так могло бы пахнуть в избушке лесной колдуньи или знахарки-травницы, обязательно проживающей рядом с не совсем прозрачным озером ;)

Gs02
Выполнен уже в другом стиле, но я бы его спокойно записала как пару gs01. Только 01 - для женщин, а 02 - для мужчин. Ну и иногда можно пошалить и поменяться парфюмами.:)
Здесь так же я, с самого начала, ощущаю много-много трав, но травы уже лишь чуть подсушенные, горьковатые, ядовитые. Спустя некоторое время отчетливо слышится горячительный бальзам и мягкая тонкая кожа.
Аромат с такой богатой на яркие компоненты пирамидой вышел на удивление мягким, аккуратным, спокойным. Тонкая и красивая композиция.

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